Best use of baby goat (2008)


The cuisine of Greece's landlocked Epirus Mountains is the focus of the menu at Metsovo. It includes several versions of the toasted cheese called saganaki, various lamb dishes, and sturdy filo pies loaded with cheese and potatoes. But best of all is the fricassee of baby goat "Ali Pasha"—named after a 19th-century Epirus leader who made the region independent for a time, and was commemorated by Lord Byron. The dish is a big, soupy mess of rice, goat, broth, and yogurt, memorable in every way. And I'd climb a mountain just to get a serving of it.


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