Best use of beans (2008)

Bosna Express

Sit-down successor to a revered Bosnian hamburger stand in Ridgewood, Bosna Express shares the same name as its progenitor. The pljeskavica (giant lamb burgers) are nearly as good at the new place, which feels like a church basement, but the real star of the show is the dull-sounding grah. This homely stew of white beans is punched up with fibrous chunks of smoked beef, which contribute to a complex flavor that teeters between creamy and smoky. Get a bowl with one of the puffy flatbreads called lepinja (which doubles as lamb burger bun), and you're all set for a perfect meal.


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