Best use of clams (2008)

Road House

Just off the corner of Clove and Victory, not far from Wagner College, Road House has been a fixture of the pleasant neighborhood of Sunny Side since 1971. Most of that time it was a rambling frame structure, but a complete redo has left it looking like a mausoleum done in bulky cut stone. No matter, the clam pie is still fabulous—on a Staten Island–style pizza crust midway between Sicilian and Neapolitan, laked with good cheese and then smothered with minced clams, with a bit of chopped parsley here and there for color contrast. And, at $12, it's still a spectacular deal.