Best use of eggs (2008)


A lateral offshoot of Prune, Uovo is one of the new breed of East Village boutique restaurants in modest premises, but possessing a very ambitious culinary agenda. While the food is nominally Mediterranean, it dabbles all over the world, offering jarring juxtapositions: octopus with burdock root and preserved lemons, say, or barbecued brisket washed with coffee gravy. Eggs make subversive and humorous appearances on the menu, starring in a roast garlic soup or in a plate of baby asparagus.


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