Best use of prunes (2008)
The wonderful Tunisian pastry called brik— stuffed with tuna, capers, and a semi-cooked egg—is hard to come by in these parts, but an estimable rendition is found at Nomad. The same flaky warka pastry goes into the Moroccan pie bastilla, which arrives prettily brocaded with cinnamon and powdered sugar, even though it's not a dessert. Sugar fiends take note. There are lemony Moroccan salads too, and main-course tajines, of which the best features an entire lamb shank caramelized with prunes. Prunes? Don't I mean dried plums?