Best use of spine (2008)
The East Village has always been a bastion of the most reasonably priced sushi, but has rarely approached midtown places in quality, with a few exceptions like Hasaki and Koi. Joining their number, with scintillating sushi at sub-midtown prices, is Ebisu. In an elegant wood-clad premises, the sushi bar is front and center, and in its glass case Spanish mackerel tussles with Pacific mackerel, octopus with squid, and mature yellowtail with its wet-behind-the-ears immature counterpart, baby yellowtail. I also love the off-center appetizers, including watercress gomaae gobbed with a sweet sesame dressing, and sea-eel tempura, presented with its fried backbone on the side. Crunch, crunch.