Best West Village Roykan (2008)
Wood-paneled in Japanese rustic style, Yoko purveys Nipponese food with flair and care. The edamame arrive piping hot, and the tofu is silky and sweet. Sushi is flopping fresh, and there are frequent specials like hotategai, tasty huge scallops, and a maki roll of fluke, bass, and sea trout. It's almost as good as an evening in the Japanese countryside.