Grandest ground meat (2008)
Doing stupendous things with ground meat is a challenge, and nobody does it better than Bulgara. This obscurely located mehana (a Bulgarian bar-cum-clubhouse) occupies a former warehouse in a decrepit neighborhood, generating amazing ground-pork patties (kufte), skinny pork-and-beef sausages (kebache), and even skinnier all-pork sausages (karnache), all grilled over charcoal till they get stripy, ooze, and pop. Take your pick—they're all delicious. Or get the equally good egg-and-veggie scramble mellifluously monikered "mish-mash."