Loveliest Lamb Testicles (2008)

Café Shishkebab

The barbecued sweetbreads are way better than the testicles—which are a bit rubbery and frozen tasting—but, hey, I got your attention, didn't I? CAFÉ SHISHKEBAB is a serviceable Uzbeki café featuring budget charcoaled shish kebabs, very good bread lubricants like baba ghanoush and hummus, and killer french fries. The chicken tabaka, a garlicky bird crushed flat, is also the best in Brighton Beach, much better than the versions served at those tedious boardwalk establishments.