Loveliest liverwurst (2008)
Named after a rather mournful classic of Ger- man poetry, new wave beer garden Loreley has a wonderful wood-clad back patio, offering all manner of Central European viands, including sauerbraten, Rhineland goulash that's all meat and no potatoes, and of course, the frying miracle called wiener schnitzel. But the best thing on the menu is the homemade liverwurst, a long-discredited Teutonic pâté flavored with onions and sweet spices. Served with dill pickles and good rye, Loreley's version reasserts the hegemony of this classic recipe among liver products. It just might make you throw away your foie gras.