Madonna Louise Ciccone Ritchie has reinvented herself repeatedly, but rarely so persuasively as in her 1998 release Ray of Light, which sold 15 million units and went platinum in several countries. To commemorate the 10th anniversary of its release, we're preparing a progressive Malaysian meal of stingray in three boroughs. We'll whisk her in a white stretch limo to Taste Good in Elmhurst, where she'll enjoy ray deep-fried in chile sauce; then on to Belachan in Sunset Park, where the fish is wrapped in a banana leaf and roasted; and finally at Nyonya in Little Italy, where "Cheng-lai stingray" poaches the chitinous fish in a lemongrass broth of amazing subtlety. Taste Good, 82-18 45th Avenue, Elmhurst, Queens; Belachan, 6102 Seventh Avenue, Sunset Park, Brooklyn; Nyonya, 194 Grand Street

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82-18 45th Ave.
New York NY 11373


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