Most efficacious dog (2008)


When franks pose as dinner, the economy is surely on the skids. The problem is, you have to eat several to fill yourself up. Not so at Coney's. Theirs is not the impish Nathan's frank we associate with Coney Island, but the dog that the rest of the country calls a coney: a smoky, all-beef foot-long that comes on a long bun sluiced with rich chili sauce. But wait a minute! You also get a choice of three toppings, which tend to make the frank into a full meal. The fried clams and Buffalo wings ain't bad, either, at this tiny place that seeks to reproduce the entire menu of a boardwalk snack shack.


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