Most Impressive Indonesian (2008)


New York has never been able to boast about its Indonesian restaurants; in fact, we've never had more than three or four. But now the spice-exporting archipelago has fielded UPI JAYA, furnishing a Sumatran perspective on the complicated cuisine. Sumatra sate come with wiggly blocks of rice starch, while the beef rendang is as dense as a refractory schoolboy.