Most Nourishing Noodles (2008)
Rae Rae Ken
The humble ramen shop has resisted transplantation from Japan to New York, where soba and udon hog all the gloryuntil now, with the advent of RAE RAE KEN, a narrow East Village den with but a handful of stools and a small staff fiercely dedicated to perfecting humble noodle soups on these shores. Check out the broth bubbling on the stove and find it bobbing with a complex mix of incongruous ingredients, producing a soup of startling richness. Remember to slurp with pleasure as you eat.