Most old-fashioned kosher deli (2008)
Second Avenue Deli, R.I.P. Katz's provides backup, of course, but here is Katz's dirty little secret: It ain't kosher. For a good substitute we must look far to the north, to Riverdale in the Bronx, where Liebman's has been dishing knishes since 1953, and will hopefully continue doing so when downtown Manhattan kosher delis are a distant memory. I'm not a big fan of their pastrami, but the corned beef is as good as it gets—well-brined, fat-rimmed, thick-sliced. The matzo ball soup is similarly appealing, with two big soft balls and egg noodles.