Most Osmotic Salad (2008)

DUSHANBE

At DUSHANBE, the city's sole Tajik eatery, find wonderful kebabs, dumplings, the lush rice pilaf called plov, and the euphonious achick-chuck, a simple salad of tomatoes and red onions that depends for its flavor on the scented tomato water that accumulates by osmosis at the bottom of the bowl.