Most Rollicking Rollatine (2008)
Eggplant rollatine is a bellwether for Neapolitan cookingit's so simple, yet difficult to get exactly right. The ricotta filling must be scintillatingly fresh, the thin-sliced eggplant successfully evacuated of its bitter juices, and the tomato sauce must sparkle, yet not overwhelm the other delicate flavors. No place does this dish quite like FROST, an obscure and self-effacing Williamsburg old-timer that looks like a military bunker. Don't hesitatepush your way inside.