Most Satisfying Shrimp (2008)

Rencher's Crab Inn

Though not particularly large, the shrimp at RENCHER'S CRAB INN—an old and forgotten institution in Brooklyn's Clinton Hill—stand with the best of 'em. Sold by the pound, they've been lovingly cooked in a Maryland-style red seafood boil, which means they taste of celery, cayenne, and brine, in that order. Miraculously, Rencher's hangs on through succeeding waves of gentrification and fast-foodization in the neighborhood.

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