Oy! Okinawan (2008)
Remote from the rest of Japan, the island of Okinawa enjoys its own distinctive cuisine, influenced by Korean, Chinese, and, yes, American cooking. At midtown's Suibi, it all comes together in goyachampuru, a strange scramble of bitter melon, scallions, Spam, and soft tofu—hey, it manages to taste like eggs and bacon! Besides such other Okinawan items as red mozuku seaweed and the indecipherable but delicious "brisket of pork belly," Suibi excels at all the usual Japanese stuff, including teriyaki, tofu, tempura, and pristine sushi. The sake list features varieties from Okinawa known as awamoris.