Premier Moules Frites (2008)

Jubilee

I'm a sucker for the plump mussel, steamed by the kilo in its shell and served in a deep bowl half-filled with broth. Plenty of Belgian places like Petit Abeille, Belgo, and Markt serve fine versions, but my heart belongs to a French joint, Jubilee. Among multiple variations, go for "poulette," swamped in a cream sauce of rich chicken stock and mushrooms perfected with a sprinkle of chives.

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