The biggest book of 1982 (53 weeks at the top of the Times bestseller list!) was a slender volume by Bruce Feirstein called Real Men Dont Eat Quiche. Though partly intended as a parody, the title alone telegraphed the idea that a food fad swiped from Franceand a dominant dish of the 80swas irretrievably effeminate. Well, quiche has survived, packing tons of fat into small eggy wedges while seeming virtuous and low-caloric. Meanwhile, the author of the book has been consigned to permanent obscurity. At Amys Bread, you can still find great quiche; their Swiss-cheese-and-ham is the pies quintessential Gallic evocation.