Superior Cemitas (2008)

TAQUERIA COCOYOC

Cemitas—the round sandwiches of Puebla, Mexico—are not as common in Brooklyn as you'd expect, maybe because the seeded rolls are hard to find. TAQUERIA COCOYOC in Bushwick assembles the best, crammed with barbacoa (steamed goat), string cheese, avocado, sun-dried chiles, lettuce, and tomato, then smeared with beans and crema.