Superior Staten island Pizza (2008)
Before the Verrazano Narrows Bridge united Brooklyn and Staten Island, the island's pizza bakers labored in isolation, generating a unique type of pie with a crust somewhere between Neapolitan and Sicilian. Cooked at a lower temperature, the thicker crust can be loaded with a lusher dose of ingredients. The best example of this sort of pie is found at DENINO'S, a fortress of a place with a prodigious barroom attached. Though the dining room is bare-bones, it has a retrograde charm that leaves me always wanting to return.