Toniest tuna (2008)
Offshoot of the beloved Italian trattoria Falai, Falai Panetteria slices some amazing bread. Their sandwiches come on either sea-salted focaccia or black cabbage bread—flecked with a subtly flavored leaf popular in Tuscany. The scintillating tuna salad, with just a hint of lemon rind, is a knockout on the black cabbage bread, while the spicy salami with taleggio and onion confit goes much better on the focaccia. Also meriting plaudits are the small dishes available at dinnertime, including mini-casseroles of veal meatballs, plum tomatoes with thyme, and leaks mired in crème fraîche. Hey, isn't that French?