World's foremost dumplings (2008)

Lao Bei Fang

Though a colorful banner flaunts the hand-pulled noodles, they can't compete with the ones at Super Taste. Instead, go to Lao Bei Fang for their wondrous dumplings. The plain chive-pork potstickers are served four for a dollar, which is one dumpling fewer than you get at the dollar dumpling stalls of the Lower East Side. But, oh, those dumplings! Bigger, glossier, dripping with fluids, these dumplings have twice the filling of their competitors. There are other remarkable choices, too, including one with a filling of Chinese celery and pork, and another flavored with fennel. The latter are called hui xiang, and I've heard they are all the rage in Beijing.