If pork is the other white meat, then goat must be the other brown meat. Like lamb, it is mildly flavored, and sports enough sinew to make chewing fun. While we're inordinately fond of goat rotis scored at Brooklyn places like Ali's Trinidad Roti Shop, the palm this year goes to Scott Conant's Scarpetta (the name means "little shoe"), where a recipe that the chef has been gestating for more than a decade at three restaurants—baby goat braised with potatoes and peas, known as capretto—is on the regular menu. Which means you can have it every night.

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355 W. 14th St.
New York NY 10014


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