The south of France gets short shrift in most French restaurants, since the food is almost too . . . Italian, with its pistou soup, anchovy pizzas, and tomato-laced potages. But Boulud Sud tackles it along with several other sunny cuisines that rim the Mediterranean. Theres a soupe de poisson that serves as a sort of baby bouillabaisse, a plate of the chickpea fritters called panisse, and a splendid ratatouille with a sunnyside-up egg on top. Nothing could be more summery. 20 West 64th Street, 212-595-1313,

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20 W. 64th St.
New York NY 10023


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