The yuba soba at the 14-seat Lower East Side newcomer Cocoron promises to be "a hit with ladies everywhere," and this hearty dish certainly wooed me. Yuba, or tofu skin, is made by skimming off the film that rises in a vat of curdling soy milk. Here the delicate pale yellow sheets accompany a small mound of cold soba noodles, while a thick, savory broth warms over a tabletop flame. Plop a piece of the snappy yuba into the broth along with some noodles and a spring of watercress, swirl the components around until hot and slightly wilted, then gobble up. 61 Delancey Street, 212-925-5220, (10002)

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61 Delancey St.
New York NY 10002


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