There's something in the water, they say, that makes the baguettes in Paris distinct. Better. Inimitable. Well, merci, Eric Kayser, for bringing the secret, water or otherwise, Stateside. At Maison Kayser, the globetrotting master baker gifts New York with his baguette Monge, named for the street in the fifth arrondissement where he opened the first of his many bakeries so long ago. Cela n'a rien à voir with the dense and dry or overly floppy sticks of gluten a grocery store might call a baguette. The baguette is slightly stout with air holes that would threaten to float away were they not contained by a golden crust. And of course, the distinctive point end that lets you know it is a Kayser creation. Slap on some butter and ham and voilà, the lunch of your life is served.

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