Best Of :: Food & Drink
In the months since Lisa Giffen took over the kitchen at Maison Premiere, the Adour vet has further expanded the menu to the point where this crowded Williamsburg spot is no longer just a top-notch oyster bar with solid share plates and an excellent cocktail program headed by Maxwell Britten—it's now a destination restaurant for devourers of marine life the city over. Giffen applies fastidious French technique to Italian crudo, yielding enticing pairings that find sepia sharing the plate with black radish and yogurt, or sea bream propped up with pops of earthiness and tang from tarragon and pickled gooseberries. On the menu since day one, the gumbo has gone through several variations and now contains chicken, oysters, and chunks of moist black bass in a heady sofrito base. Whereas her predecessor and former Ducasse colleague Jared Stafford-Hill got the ball rolling, Giffen is a whirlwind somersault of periwinkles and razor clams.
While Bierkraft is best known for its more than 1,000 bottled, canned, and draft beer selections, it's also stocked with artisanal cheeses, chocolates, and house-made spreads like chutney, sauerkraut, and olive tapenade. Pick up a few and then head to the sandwich counter, where the staff will generously pile cured meats and vegetables onto enormous baguettes. The finishing touch for your picnic lunch? House-made ice cream sandwiches, though you might want to eat that first. Wash everything down with a growler of ale.
Most of New York City's Georgians reside in Brooklyn, so it follows that most of this city's Georgian restaurants are in that borough as well. But when Oda House opened in the East Village, it offered a taste of the Eurasian country's dumplings, khatchapuri (cheese breads), and other rich dishes to Manhattan. Knowledgeable servers will walk you through the menu if you're unfamiliar with the cuisine, calling out favorites and explaining why certain dishes are important representations of this type of food. We're partial to the adjaruli khatchapuri, a football-shaped loaf of bread hollowed out and then filled with a mix of tart feta and sweet mozzarella, which bubbles and browns as it bakes. The kitchen cracks an egg over the mixture just before serving it, and vigorous stirring slowly scrambles it into the molten cheese. Bring a group—this restaurant is set up for feasting.
Very much representative of Bushwick's ongoing gentrification, Fritzl's Lunch Box manages to offer highbrow versions of lowbrow food at more affordable prices, an ethos that translates to a burger that both celebrates and elevates the classic through its bold mixture of beef cheek and fatty chuck, and a sweet relish of pickles and onions. The patty gets a blanket of nicely sharp cheddar and a fine textural contrast from the toasted sesame seed bun, but it's the charred miso aioli that catapults Fritzl's to the top. Unctuous isn't a word that should be used lightly, but it's hard to find a better descriptor of such a refined burger condiment.
The weather-worn royal blue awning clinging to San Antonio Bakery II, a humble little bakery overlooking Astoria Boulevard, flaps in the wind over I-278 like a faint beacon signaling visitors from all over the city. Fans make regular trips, but not just for the Chilean pastries, homemade breads, and the shiny dessert counter. Most come for Il Completo, a juicy beef frank tucked into a steaming homemade roll and topped with guacamole, a zigzag of mayo, diced tomatoes, and garlic-rich pebre sauce. The creation is presented on its own little red pedestal; wash this puppy down with a can of Pap (Chilean soda) in the comfort of the modest dining room while regulars fix their gaze upward on the televised soccer games.
The Shopsin family has a 40-year legacy of providing a compelling dining experience steeped in eccentricity and eclecticism, and Shopsins is famous for its massive menu. The current list is fairly trim at over 500 menu items, which range from brunch staples like French toast and burgers to the Shopsins' take on huevos rancheros, "Blisters on My Sisters." In addition to the substantial waits that prospective diners often encounter, there is a strict rule against parties of more than four, and as one regular says, "Pretending to be a party of three that happened to have come in with a party of two is a very bad idea." If you and up to three of your friends are up to the challenge, though, make your selection simple by closing your eyes and pointing. You can't miss.