Best Bar Atmosphere - 2000
Faux-sophisticated track lighting sheds a subtle red, orange, and green glow that provides, as my roommate Ted explains, "the perfect dimness. Everyone looks pretty fucking attractive." Although this dive-plus, which opened in May, draws the youngest clientele (mostly postcollegiate) of the burgeoning, slightly fancy Smith Street sceneso pardon the exposed-brick interiorBoat's real lure is the comfy seating area in back, where it is shockingly possible to nestle into a red vinyl booth for the night. Escape the snafu while enjoying the jukebox, which offers solid good shit like the Nuggets compilation, Love, the Jam, Roy Orbison, and two indispensable tracks, Beck's never-not-funny "Debra" and Sonic Youth's cover of the Carpenters' "Superstar."