The Alsatian conjoining of cabbage and smoked pork known as choucroute garnie is a bit of an obsession with me, so I was delighted to find that it's a daily menu item at L'Actuel. Winter or summer, I can chow down on the mellow cumin- and-juniper-berry-scented sauerkraut that's served up as a bed for three types of sausage, a smoked pork chop, potato chunks, and a lamb patty. There's even good wine available by the carafe. The gods must have listened to my prayers.