It'll cost you, but if you want to celebrate the marriage of milk and mold in grand style, head to Picholine. Nibble through dinnerthat's not the point this timeand order the best bottle of red you can afford. Then sit back and select from the rolling cart of cheese, which offers an international variety ranging from faintly aromatic to downright funky. If they've got it, don't miss the über funk of Spanish Cabrales. Skip the bread, request a ripe pear, cut it with butter, slather it on, and savor.