Forget about the phallic sprig of rosemary that garnishes so many of Gotham's dishes; at CORNELIA STREET CAFÉ, the food is notable for its taste—not for looking as though it's been fussed over by 1000 tiny elfin hands—and the boudin blanc's the best. Densely toothsome with just a hint of fennel, it goes perfectly with the accompanying slaw of thick strips of red cabbage and a cranberry-apple crisp that continues the sweet-tart theme. There's also a performance cabaret in the nether regions of this spot, dubbed a culinary and cultural landmark by mayoral proclamation in 1987.