Deciding on a "best" Gotham-made pint is less a goal than a never ending process, what with the brewpubs and micros swapping out new recipes, hustling taps, and sometimes succumbing to the expedient inconsistency of any small-patch craft. Luckily, there's a healthy variety, but with apologies to the thicket of well-appointed sit-under-the-fermentation-tanks spots around town, I choose Brooklyn's own Sixpoint Craft Ales' darkling, dizzying SMP, a smoked Baltic porter that constitutes all on its lonesome a full meal, a dessert, and a stormy evening sky. Heavy, smoky, and strong but not too heavy, smoky, or strong, the SMP is apparently seasonal, and you might have to hunt for it at area taverns when the weather cools down. Wherever: Pick a good stool, because the beer will root you for the duration.