Argentines with their alternative steak agenda have been infiltrating Steak World for the last decade or so. Instead of a roster of porterhouses and rib eyes, they offer picanhas and bife de chorizos, further seducing us with real chorizo and excellent blood sausage, and sometimes even tripe, meaning a cow's small intestines. Enter Buenos Aires into the steak- poor East Village, boasting a splendid rear backyard dotted with umbrella-sprouting tables. The skirt steak is a marvel and so are the cudgel-sized beef ribs, lightly charred on the surface and bloody in the middle. Hell, I'd pay a visit just to taste those floppy brown fries, drenched in the house chimichurri.