Food & Drink

Comments (0) Best use of spine - 2006

Ebisu

Ebisu

414 E. 9th St.

New York, NY 10003

212-979-9899

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The East Village has always been a bastion of the most reasonably priced sushi, but has rarely approached midtown places in quality, with a few exceptions like Hasaki and Koi. Joining their number, with scintillating sushi at sub-midtown prices, is Ebisu. In an elegant wood-clad premises, the sushi bar is front and center, and in its glass case Spanish mackerel tussles with Pacific mackerel, octopus with squid, and mature yellowtail with its wet-behind-the-ears immature counterpart, baby yellowtail. I also love the off-center appetizers, including watercress gomaae gobbed with a sweet sesame dressing, and sea-eel tempura, presented with its fried backbone on the side. Crunch, crunch.

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