Food & Drink

Comments (0) Marvelous Malaysian - 2006

Skyway

The part of Manhattan's Chinatown that might be called Little Penang is centered on the corner of Allen and Canal, and the shifting roster of Malaysian institutions will make your head spin. After Proton Saga tanked, and Sentosa moved to Flushing, then came Skyway, named after a mountaintop tourist trap. The Malaysian food, though, is top notch, including fried pearl noodles (free-form pasta that looks like squirmy earthworms), house special pork with yam (made with—surprise, surprise—braised pork belly), and asam laksa, a pungent soup with a brick-red broth and more ingredients than you can well remember after you've polished off the last flavorful drop.

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