Comments (0) Most sensational splurge - 2006
Telepan
I was never much of a fan of Bill Telepan's cooking at Judson Grill, but I sat up and took notice when he opened Telepan this year, occupying a maze-like and comfortable green room on the Upper West Side, decorated with giant farm paintings, handily telegraphing the chef's obsession with vegetables and meats produced by sustainable regional agriculture. Thus we have an appetizer of roasted asparagus with frisée decorated with a local poached egg, and a terrine of Hudson River foie gras sided with a duck prosciutto and rhubarb salad, garnished with beet marmalade. Even the wonderful spaghetti carbonara has been turned in a distinctly upstate direction with freshly shelled peas and house-cured pancetta.
