One could argue that the greatest thing about Molly's Shebeen in Gramercy Park is its fireplace: a real wood-burning hearth, not the lame gas kind—one of the few legal wood fireplaces left in a bar in the city. And it is indeed a pleasure to step into this cozy Irish sanctuary on a winter's night and be warmed on the outside by the crackling logs while being warmed on the inside by potables from the bar. But the man serving those drinks is Molly's truest treasure—Peter O'Connell, a friendly bear from Eire who co-owns the joint and commands it with a boisterous graciousness that's as much a part of the place as its low ceilings, sawdusted wood floors, and strangely flickering lights. His friendly, gravel-voiced greeting—the epitome of Hibernian welcome—combined with his pub's cozy-cottage ambience easily make Peter New York's best, and Molly's one of the most underappreciated gems in town.