In Bertolucci's Last Tango in Paris, Brando tells Maria Schneider to "Go get the butter" as a prelude to anal sex. Prodding us to wonder: What does Brando deserve? How about a mouthful of raw squid at Chiyono, which tastes like—shamelessly quoting ourselves —"the gooey aftermath of a blowjob." This culinary inversion turns out to be particularly apropos since, as rumor has it, the Schneider character in the director's original script was intended to be a boy rather than a girl.

manhattan
328 East 6th Street
View Map
Phone: 212-673-3984