When Steelo Clothing designer Matt Levine enthusiastically shared with Guest of a Guest the exclusive philosophy behind his then-not-yet-opened Lower East Side bar, the Eldridge, he revealed plans for a hand-stamped golden floor with customized golden flakes, laser-engraved cards for entrance, bartenders called “butlers,? and a SmartWater-sponsored Escalade that would escort patrons home. He immediately racked up scads of scorn courtesy of page space on Good Night, Mr. Lewis, as well as Down by the Hipster, Grub Street, Radar Online, Eater, and every other culture blog who took the delicious bite. Levine might have been the butt of a magnum’s worth of jokes for a couple months, but he all but guaranteed a built-in audience of both fans and foes. Who cares if your customers are there to pan you when they’re forking over $26 per drink?