If you're an old-school mobster who hasn't already entered a witness-protection program and craves a taste of the real Little Italy, it's best to avoid the overpriced tourist joints on Mulberry Street, where the food quality has plummeted since Paolucci's closed a couple of years back, and where bargains disappeared along with wonderful old Luna's Restaurant. Around the corner on Grand Street is Florio's Grill & Cigar Bar, which is what an old wiseguy is really looking for?a place where the veal is supreme, the pasta al dente, and where you can even buy and smoke a stogie to absent friends. And the best part: Both operators and patrons of the establishment can regale you with tales of the good old days, when Gambino capo Joe "Butch" Corrao kept an eye on things from his old Andrea Doria social club.