Among variety meats, bone marrow—the slimy generative tissue in the hollow interior of long bones—has been neglected by all but the French, who consider it the perfect thing to spread on toast. The popularity of marrow has multiplied in the last year, so that now there are a half-dozen or more restaurants in town that feature it. Though we've long loved the appetizer at Landmarc, our fave this year is at Minetta Tavern, where the bone marrow starter features extensively roasted cow shinbone, offered with a pot of mustard, a mess of lentils, and a plenitude of toasts to scrape the quaking, gelatinous contents.