At a traditional ceviche spot, you might not expect the bespectacled cook to haul out his homemade gravity bong, pack a load of Sichuan peppercorns in the bowl, and get his oysters "toasted." But Desnuda is no ordinary restaurant—it offers "new world ceviche," which seems to mean that the chef does whatever the hell he wants with his cache of fresh fish, chilies, and citrus. On the spot, he miraculously generates delicacies like Spanish mackerel ceviche: a red heap of the dark, oily fish dressed with a pungent mix of shallots, coconut, lime, and bales of smoked paprika. It's ceviche you could imagine as a deli sandwich, piled high on a bagel and utterly delicious.