Despite hectoring by the PETA people and others, foie gras remains one of the city's most popular organs. Foie gras by itself is an over-unctuous thing, a limp gland oozing grease that can barely stand the heat of the skillet before disappearing completely. (If you want a traditional French foie gras presentation, head for Gascogne.) Accordingly, we prefer to eat it incorporated onto a rich terrine with other more flavorful substances. In the pâté grand-père at Bar Boulud, for example, the organ is flavored with cognac and truffle juice—we can't think of a better thing to spread on toast points.