Headcheese, that glorious loaf of Jell-O-like, fatty, and lush pork yielded from a long-boiled pig's head, has been used to good effect all around the city this past year, whether in a high-end, quivering incarnation at Bar Boulud, or as a rich swath of pig tucked into a banh mi in Sunset Park's Chinatown. The most satisfying headcheese this year can be found at Txikito, in the Basque dish called "bakailoa": house-cured salt cod sliced very thin, topped with diced nuggets of breaded and fried headcheese that crunches and gushes pork fat, nearly gluing your teeth together with gelatin.