Sure, we love Nathan's franks, especially if they're consumed by the sea. And we love waggish Crif Dogs, too, especially the bacon-wrapped beauty known as the "spicy redneck." And the chile-onion relish that gets spooned on top of the weenie at Boulevard Franks in Jersey City also makes us swoon. But the best dog, as far as this dog round-up is concerned, is the griddle-cooked, natural-skin frank at Gray's Papaya, the 24-hour, 365-day hot dog stand at the corner of Sixth and West 8th. For the adventuresome, there's the "all the way" dog, with canned onions, sauerkraut, grainy German mustard, and the slightest squirt of ketchup, for sweetness.