Spawned by rampant locavorism, fear of plastic bottles, and an eye on the bottom line, fancy restaurants have started purifying and sometimes carbonating New York's beloved tap water. Some ferry it to the table in a carafe, without mentioning that it will appear on your tab at three bucks or more a throw. Getting its revenge on those feckless establishments, unpretentious gastropub The Smith brings a pair of water bottles to your table—the fizzy in green glass, the still in plain clear glass. Drink all you want, because the purified water is gratis. Excellent work!