Now that we know that lard is twice as good for you as butter—it has half the saturated fat, pound for pound—we're wondering why so few places bother to serve it. In Italy, it is a ubiquitous part of the salumi menu—as lardo, which is pig fat that has been cured so it becomes firm and develops an engagingly musky flavor. Otto pioneered the use of lardo on pizza, and Motorino got into the act, too, but the most lardo-loving restaurant in town is surely Del Posto, the far-western Chelsea restaurant owned by Mario Batali and Joe and Lidia Bastianich. There, a whipped form of lardo is made available as a bread topping—and bread doesn't get any better treatment than that.